Vitamin C

PURE VITAMIN C (INCI: ASCORBIC ACID)

Vitamin C has become one of the most important active ingredients in the cosmetics industry. We have all heard of vitamin C as a healthy component of plant-based foods such as fruit and vegetables—and in this case, we absorb vitamin C through our diet. However, vitamin C also has amazing properties when applied externally as an ingredient in skin care products, helping to combat wrinkles, pigmentation spots, and acne.

Vitamin C as a powerful antioxidant

Vitamin C is a naturally powerful antioxidant and acts as a defense system in our bodies. All kinds of metabolic processes produce what are known as free radicals, waste products that attack and damage cell membranes as well as lipids and proteins within our tissue. We are also exposed to these free radicals from outside, as they affect our bodies in the form of sunlight (i.e., aggressive UV radiation), cigarette smoke, exhaust fumes, and the like. Since intact cell membranes, proteins, and lipids are a prerequisite for intact skin, all these harmful factors also significantly promote skin aging. 

So what does vitamin C do? As an antioxidant, vitamin C has the ability to neutralize free radicals so that they cannot have a negative effect on our (skin) health.

Vitamin C and collagen, vitamin C against wrinkles

Collagen acts as a supporting framework, ensuring that skin looks firm, elastic, and youthful. Wrinkles develop when the collagen framework becomes unstable over time. To effectively counteract the formation of wrinkles, it is therefore important to support the formation of new collagen as much as possible – and vitamin C can play a crucial role here. Vitamin C is an essential intermediate product in the formation of collagen, without which the entire collagen formation process would ultimately not function. Supplying the skin with vitamin C through care products is therefore extremely beneficial. Vitamin C has a simple, small structure and can therefore easily penetrate the skin, where it immediately unfolds its positive effects. But it not only supports collagen formation: the antioxidant properties of vitamin C are also helpful, protecting the collagen structure from harmful free radicals.

Vitamin C for pigment spots

Pigment and age spots develop with age due to excessive melanin production and storage in certain areas of the skin, which then becomes visible as hyperpigmentation. Sun exposure and UV radiation can also cause this. Vitamin C can help with this skin problem in two ways: it naturally counteracts excessive melanin production and also protects the skin from UV radiation. The combination of both factors ensures that pigment spots are less likely to develop and also improves the appearance of existing hyperpigmentation. A day cream with vitamin C as an added active ingredient and a sun protection factor is an ideal everyday companion. This way, your face is well protected.

Vitamin C for acne and pimples

Vitamin C has anti-inflammatory properties and can therefore be used effectively to treat acne and blemishes. The micro-inflammations that cause pimples and blemishes subside more quickly under the influence of vitamin C, the skin is soothed, and the complexion appears smoother and clearer. Vitamin C also counteracts the formation of new blemishes.

Forms of vitamin C

Vitamin C comes in many different forms. Among them, ascorbic acid (also known as L-ascorbic acid) is undoubtedly the most noteworthy. It has been extensively researched and has proven itself many times over as an ingredient in skin care products. If you see ascorbic acid in the list of ingredients, it is very likely that the product is well formulated. In high concentrations (for example, in serums with a content of up to 15% or more), ascorbic acid is capable of regulating even difficult skin problems.

Other types of active ingredients derived from vitamins

Apart from ascorbic acid, there are many other forms of vitamin C. These so-called derivatives are used in cosmetics in various compositions and concentrations, depending on the requirements and individual area of application. Depending on the type of vitamin C-derived active ingredient, it is recommended to combine it with other active ingredients that have a positive effect on cell health and skin regeneration in general. For example, there are formulations with retinol or niacinamide, which are also powerful anti-aging ingredients. Combining it with other antioxidants has also proven effective.

Vitamin C – great results even at low doses

Depending on the concentration in which vitamin C is used, it is also suitable for different care products. 

Which concentration is suitable for which type of care? 

Primary care products with vitamin C as an active ingredient work with very different dosages. It has been shown that even low dosages can produce very pleasing results. For example, an antioxidant and anti-aging effect can already be detected at a concentration of just 0.6%. 

Serums 

High concentrations of vitamin C are best stored in serums, which can transfer the full effect of a single active ingredient to the skin after skincare. Serums can have an ideal effect with a concentration of 15 to 20%. Important to know: Above a concentration of 20% vitamin C in the serum, the effect is actually weaker again. Also note: Vitamin C serums must be dispensed in an airtight pump dispenser. This is because the often pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid) used as an active ingredient here oxidizes immediately on contact with air, decomposes, and therefore quickly loses its effect.

Day creams and moisturizers 

Day creams should primarily work with a combination of different active ingredients and moisturizers to provide holistic care for the skin. Therefore, too high a concentration of a single active ingredient, in this case vitamin C, is not recommended. In addition to vitamin C, day creams can also contain other vitamins, such as vitamin A or E, moisturizers such as hyaluronic acid, or essential skin building blocks such as collagen or ceramides. It is also important to note that vitamin C is not used in its “pure form” in day creams—no ascorbic acid is used here, but instead vitamin C derivatives such as ethyl ascorbic acid or similar.

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