NIACINAMIDE

(INCI: NIACIN, NIACINAMIDE, NIACINAMIDE XXX, XXX NICOTINATE (E.G. TOCOPHERYL NICOTINATE)

Niacinamide is a substance that is becoming increasingly interesting for the cosmetics industry. Behind this trendy ingredient is the well-known vitamin B3, whose chemical name is niacin. Derivatives of niacin, such as niacinamide and tocopheryl nicotinate, are now being used in the cosmetics industry. Many users have found that regular treatment of the skin with niacinamide products achieves amazingly positive results. Whether as a weapon against skin aging, dryness, pigmentation spots, blemished skin, or even dark circles under the eyes, niacinamide helps with everything and is suitable for all skin types.

Niacinamide in the human body

Niacin, also known as vitamin B3, is a substance that we initially come into contact with through food. Vitamin B3 is actually a vitamin that is essential for many metabolic processes in the human body. However, our bodies only produce small amounts of it, so it must be obtained through food. 

Anyone who treats their skin with niacinamide products will quickly learn to love its many talents:

Niacinamide as a weapon against skin aging

Collagen and elastin are essential building blocks for youthful appearance, firmness, and elasticity of our skin. Elastin is a component of connective tissue, and collagen forms the supportive framework that gives our skin its firmness. Niacinamide can help in this regard, as it stimulates the formation and synthesis of new collagen and elastin. The result: skin aging is delayed and visible wrinkles and lines are reduced.

Say goodbye to dryness and sensitivity

How niacinamide improves skin strength: Extremely dry skin is the result of an unstable skin barrier, which disrupts the skin's moisture balance. In this case, the skin usually lacks natural ceramides, which normally ensure a strong skin surface. 

The unpleasant result: dryness, sometimes even flaky and irritated areas or extreme skin sensitivity. The good news is that niacinamide is able to stabilize the skin barrier by significantly supporting the formation of ceramides and lipids, which in turn are crucial building blocks of a healthy skin barrier. As a result, the skin is better able to retain moisture, so that signs of dryness and sensitivity disappear or are significantly reduced. Even people who tend to have problematic, sensitive skin or suffer from rosacea, for example, can benefit from treatment with niacinamide and look forward to a well-tolerated everyday companion. 

Good to know: Niacinamide can enhance the moisturizing effect of other skincare products, especially at night. In addition, the active ingredient can be combined very well with other ingredients – and their effect can even be improved. Good combinations include glycerin, cholesterol, sodium PCA, sodium hyaluronate, or rich plant oils.

Niacinamid als Antioxidans

Antioxidants act as a defense system in our bodies. These substances have the ability to neutralize free radicals. Free radicals are waste products that are produced during many metabolic processes, but also by environmental influences/pollution, and which attack our cell structure. When free radicals encounter our tissue, an antioxidant such as niacinamide is able to intercept them and thus protect the tissue. It is easy to deduce what this ultimately means for the appearance of our skin: the inner skin structure is less damaged, so it stays healthy longer and can therefore look healthy for longer. As the skin deteriorates less quickly, skin aging can be kept in check, for example.

Niacinamide refines the complexion and combats acne.

One of niacinamide's special talents is that it regulates sebum production—one of the reasons why this active ingredient is becoming increasingly popular with users. Sebum (the skin's natural oil) is one of the main causes of pimples and blemishes. In this case, the skin produces too much sebum, pores become clogged, inflammation develops, and pimples appear. Niacinamide counteracts this by inhibiting sebum production and, as a vitamin, also has an anti-inflammatory effect. As a result, not only are there fewer blemishes, but the skin also appears mattified and much more even.

Pores appear smaller, skin texture refined

This phenomenon can also be attributed to the fact that regulated sebum production means that less “visible” dirt ends up/remains in the pores. Each individual pore is also less visible as a result, giving the skin an overall smooth and clear appearance.

Niacinamide and pigment spots

Pigment and age spots occur because excess melanin is stored in certain areas of the skin. The older we get, the more often our body makes this “mistake.” However, niacinamide can also help here: by inhibiting melanin synthesis in general, fewer pigment spots form. Existing pigment spots are visibly lightened by niacinamide, and the entire face appears more radiant and youthful.

Niacinamide application – effective as a serum, cream, or toner

There are various ways to use niacinamide, depending on your individual skin type and its specific needs. Niacinamide can be applied in many different ways—as a toner, day or night cream, serum, and so on. It is important to always use a balanced skincare routine. This means that niacinamide should always be combined with other active ingredients and, above all, moisturizers that are good for the skin.

And the dosage?

Niacinamide products can contain a wide range of concentrations of the active ingredient. While formulations containing just 2% niacinamide have shown great results in skincare products for acne treatment, concentrations of up to 10-20% are not uncommon in serums and boosters (for example, for anti-aging purposes).

Don't panic about the “Nia flush”

A little caution is advised when niacinamide is combined in high concentrations with another strongly acidic active ingredient such as vitamin C. This is because it is then converted into nicotinic acid on the skin, which can lead to a strong dilation of the blood vessels and thus to temporary reddening of the skin—the so-called “niacinamide flush.” In addition, the face may tingle and prickle, but all of this is basically harmless. Nevertheless, it is a kind of overreaction of the skin that should be avoided. It is therefore best for niacinamide beginners to start with a product formulation containing 1-5% niacinamide (for more mature skin, it can usually be a little more), and then slowly increase the amount depending on individual tolerance. In addition, niacinamide and vitamin C should not be used together immediately—only if absolutely necessary, but then with an interval of 15–30 minutes, and then there is nothing to worry about.

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